The Need to Weed

The Need to Weed

Spring is a great time to watch your garden burst into life after its winter dormancy. But it’s also the time when weeds seem to appear from nowhere overnight and can quickly overwhelm your plants. As well as spoiling the aesthetics of your garden, weeds compete for water, nutrients and light so are best removed. Even gardens designed to be low maintenance may need weeding occasionally. And it’s best done sooner rather than later before they go to seed. As the saying goes “one year’s seed, seven years weed”. Or to put it another way “a stitch in time saves nine”. But that’s enough silly dittys!

Small weed seedlings can quickly be removed by hand weeding or hoeing on a warm dry day. Hoeing cuts through surface weeds without damaging plant roots and the weeds can then be left on the soil surface to dry out.

Larger weeds may need digging out with a hand fork or border fork. With perennial weeds (e.g. dandelion, dock, nettle) it’s important to remove all sections of the root, otherwise the plant will grow back.

Some perennial weeds (e.g. bindweed, ground elder) are difficult to remove by digging out alone, as the roots are easily broken and any small pieces left in the soil will re-grow. In these instances it may be necessary to resort to using a total systemic herbicide containing glyphosate (e.g. Roundup), though obviously this is not an option if you want to garden organically.

Applying a mulch over the soil, such as bark chips, well-rotted manure, slate chippings or gravel, is the best way to reduce weed seeds germinating. To be effective the mulch needs to be applied thickly, at least 5cm (2 inches) deep. Permeable landscape fabrics can also be used to suppress weeds, but are best covered in gravel or bark chips to improve the appearance.

Water Conservation

Water Conservation

The current drought conditions and resultant hosepipe ban, due to take effect from 5 April in London and the south east, highlight the need for water conservation and sustainable gardening practices. It’s an area I always like to touch on when discussing a customers requirements for their new garden.

Probably the best measure any garden owner can take is installing a water butt. It’s a simple way to collect rainwater from the roof of a house or outbuilding to use around the garden. They’re easy to install and available in an ever increasing range of sizes, styles and colours to suit any garden. Perhaps it’s time all gardens had one. I certainly think all new build properties should have water butts installed as a matter of course. Maybe it’s time the government and water companies made this so. No ifs, just butts!

Getting Down to Earth

Getting Down to Earth

Any gardener will tell you that successful gardening always starts with the soil. Look after your soil and you’ll be able to grow a far greater range of plants. Ideally what you need is a fertile, well-drained, moisture retentive loam. But chances are your soil will be anything but that. In my neck of the woods here in Dulwich it’s a heavy London clay. If uncared for it becomes compacted and waterlogged in winter and cracks and dries as hard as concrete in summer.

But a bit of time and effort can change all that and now is the time of year to do it. The best way to improve any soil, clay or otherwise, is by the addition of organic matter. This could be homemade garden compost or leafmould, rotted farm manure or composted bark. When added to soil organic matter improves the aeration, water-retention and drainage of the soil and, as it is broken down by soil organisms, adds nutrients as well.  My preference is a well-rotted farm manure as it tends to have higher nutrient levels and when mixed with the soil is great for making clay more workable.  

If your soil is in particularly poor condition and hasn’t been blessed with organic matter for many a year, forking it into the soil will really help, especially if new plantings are to follow. Otherwise, you can just spread it over the surface as a mulch and let the worms and other soil critters do the rest. When spread thickly about 5cm (2 in) deep, mulches also help to conserve soil moisture and suppress weed seeds from germinating. I also think the dark rich texture really sets off garden plants as they burst into life in spring. And burst into life they will, if only to thank you for looking after their world.